With Saint Patrick’s Day around the corner, here at The Northern Times we’ll be publishing a few articles showing some love to the Irish community living in the North.
To start off I thought it could be interesting to highlight some culture shocks, for lack of a better term, I experienced having lived in both Ireland (Cork) and here in Groningen. It might help the locals and even other internationals understand a bit how we experience life in the North and I’m sure many of my Irish friends here will be able to relate to some of my experiences. While there are differences between the two countries, luckily there are many similarities that will help you feel right at home – which explains why Groningen is sometimes referred to as ‘the Dutch Galway’. Ultimately in Groningen, you’re never alone if you’re from Ireland. There are more than 300 Irish students enrolled at the University of Groningen and there’s a big Irish community in the city.
Housing crisis
Unfortunately, not a positive similarity, but both Ireland and Groningen have housing crises. For me, it was just as difficult to find housing in Cork as it was in Groningen and there are many complaints about it. Whether you’re an expat or a student it’s a smart idea to start looking as early as possible when you know you’re coming over.
Weather
This might be positive or negative depending on your preferences, but the Netherlands and Ireland have very similar weather. It’s grey most of the time, it rains quite a lot, and the summers are usually not very hot despite the occasional heat wave. Both Groningen and Ireland are close to the sea, so there are often strong winds. A positive here though is that when it rains a lot in Groningen there won’t be any flooding usually, while in Cork this was quite regular and sometimes bad.
Pubs
Fortunately, like most cities, Groningen has Irish pubs, so you won’t have time to miss them. It might be a bit more difficult to find a place where they pour a Guinness like at home, but they are out there. If you want an accustomed Irish pub, the most popular one is O’Malleys. For a more traditional and cosy vibe, O’Cealleaighs is the place to be, and they do a good Guinness.
Besides traditional Irish pubs, more international pubs do a good Guinness like The Cabin and De Toeter (which is also the sponsor of the GAA team), and The Crown.
Going to one of these watering holes is likely one of the best ways to meet other Irish people who decided to move here.
GAA club
In Groningen, you can even continue your GAA (Gaelic football) training! Groningen has its own GAA team called the Groningen Gaels, which was set up in 2018 and they play games regularly in the Netherlands as well as abroad.
Even if you’re not into GAA or sports that much, it’s still a good way to meet others. The club doesn’t have any requirements to join and they have an introduction training at the start of every academic year. The Groningen Gaels train every Friday evening. More information can be found on their socials.
Food
A lot of Dutch food is very similar to Irish food. Dairy is essential, potatoes are eaten a lot and are unsurprisingly a big component of the local main dish paired with meat and vegetables with some gravy. In the Netherlands, the dish is referred to by an abbreviation of its ingredients which spells out AVG. One of the other Dutch dishes is stamppot, which is like colcannon but slightly fancier as sometimes some bacon or a smoked sausage on top is added.
Transportation
A major difference between the two countries is the means of transport. While in Ireland it’s normal to drive everywhere, there won’t be much use for a car in the centre of Groningen as a lot of streets don’t allow them, are only one way, or are very small. The current ongoing roadworks are also a source of complaints for drivers. As most probably know, a bike is the best means of transportation here and will usually get you somewhere even quicker than a car.
If you can’t or don’t want to buy a bike straight away you can get a ‘swapfiets’ which is a cheap alternative where you rent a bike for a certain amount of time and pay for it weekly.
Busses in Groningen are also very reliable and usually on time, which I rarely experienced living in Cork. If a bus won’t show up or is late for any reason it will let you know on the live screens next to the stops.
Other side of the road
If you end up getting a bike, or possibly a lease car for longer distances, keep in mind that the Dutch cycle and drive on the right instead of the left. This also means that roundabouts are to be taken the other way around. The rule of thumb is that if there are no stoplights or signs, traffic from the right has the right of way.
Irish food staples
Unfortunately, some products that are common and popular in Ireland are not so common in the Netherlands. It will be difficult to find things like potato waffles, rashers, and black pudding and these are the things I miss the most.
If you do end up finding an Albert Heijn that sells Kerrygold it’s quite expensive and doesn’t fully taste the same. Tayto’s aren’t widely available but can be bought in pubs like The Cabin, O’Malleys, and O’Cealleaighs.
Irish brands like Brennans, Lyons and Barry’s tea, and Ballymaloe but also Cadbury’s and Walkers shortbread aren’t sold in supermarkets either, however, there are some small shops that you can source them from. Kruidenier Wolters sells Barry’s tea as well as Cadbury’s, Walkers, and some other UK brands. At Food Matterz they even sell Ballymaloe relish.
Language
Speaking English is usually not an issue in Groningen or the country in general since there are so many internationals and English is taught as a second language from primary schools on. There’s no pressing need to learn Dutch. Though, if you do learn some words locals will be very flattered.
However, depending on how thick your accent is and how much slang you use, you might have to take into consideration that people might not be able to understand you fully straight away. I have noticed that sometimes I did not realise I was using Irish slang during class and was confused as to why people didn’t get what I was trying to say. If you don’t mind explaining, many Dutch people will be very interested to learn more about it, so just bear with them and don’t take it too personally.
Below sea level
One of the most noticeable differences when you arrive in the Netherlands is that it’s very flat compared to Ireland. Most of the country is below sea level and there are no hills or mountains. Though this will be very nice if you have to cycle everywhere!
Directness
Dutch people have a tendency to be quite direct, which Irish people might not be used to. Especially in university or work situations, like during feedback sessions, it is helpful to not take comments personally and keep in mind it’s rarely meant maliciously.
Timeliness
The Irish are known for not being too strict on time. However, the Dutch are. Especially for classes and other formal events tardiness is not acceptable, even if by a few minutes.
When I studied at University College Cork, people came in late all the time, sometimes even up to 30 minutes and the professor didn’t mind too much as long as you were there. At my University of Groningen lectures, if someone was a minute late they would be given out to in front of the whole lecture hall for being disrespectful and disruptive. Some faculties and lecturers are more accommodating, but be on time just in case.
Being on time is also expected in social situations, especially when you don’t know the hosts or other guests too well.
However, I have to confess I’ve permanently adapted to the Irish way and often get teased about it.
Seeing as Groningen and Ireland are not as different as you might have thought, I’m sure you will have a lovely time here.
